Sno Cap Hood scarf

Brioche knits are drop-dead gorgeous. But even though I'm a fairly skilled knitter, I just have never really been able to wrap my head around the technique.

Sometimes it is possible to substitute the fisherman's rib stitch in place of brioche rib. This lovely hooded scarf, by little quail handcraft, designed in a simple brioche rib, seems to be a suitable candidate for that substitution, so I'm going to give it a try that way. 😊 Using the fisherman's rib stitch makes this pattern accessible for me. If you are able to knit in brioche, go for it! 

It has been a few years since the last time I worked in fisherman's rib, so I used the video and blog tutorials by Davina Choy of Sheep & Stitch to refresh my memory for how to work this easy, squishy stitch.

For the yarn, I am cannibalizing this poncho project that I crocheted in 2022. It weighs about 512 grams, which, by weight, works out to approximately the equivalent of 4 skeins of this yarn. Those 4 skeins weren't quite enough to finish the poncho to my satisfaction, even though I really liked the way the project was coming along (and I believe the Eggplant/Taupe colorway had already been discontinued, and I didn't feel like searching around online to try to buy more), so my poncho sat in purgatory for about four years while I figured out what else I wanted to make with this fiber.

From poncho to Sno Cap Hood

Fair warning: There is enough of a wool halo in this yarn to frequently make it difficult to rip back. Also, there is a lot of variability in the thickness of this yarn from the way it's spun, which almost gives it a homespun character. 

Variable thickness in the fiber

I don't have the labels anymore, but from what I can see online, each of these skeins is supposed to be about 312 yards, so I should have more than enough on hand to knit a Sno Cap Hood, even with my mods to increase the size.

I deviated from the pattern by starting off with a scarf width of 25 stitches, because I prefer my scarves to be on the wider side. At this gauge, that is giving me a scarf that's about 6 inches wide, which is a fairly standard scarf width.

After knitting a couple of inches, I realized that I was not happy with the way the selvedge stitches were sitting, so I ripped back to the beginning and switched from working the slipped-stitch selvedges (as per the pattern) to working them in garter stitch. At least for the fiber that I'm working with here, having garter stitch selvedges looks better, so I'm glad I noticed early on how I felt about the edges and was able to make the change before I got so far along that ripping back would have been more painful. Sometimes you just have to go with what the personality of your fiber is saying. 😂

Before starting the hood increases, I knitted the length of the first scarf tail to about 36 inches, which was about 162 rows at the gauge I'm working with this fiber. 

To work the fisherman's rib double increases/decreases for the hood portion, this video tutorial by Carolina of So Wooly is the perfect guide for executing that technique. She also provides a written tutorial of the technique on her blog.

At first the hood increases seem counterintuitive because they alternate between being worked on the right side and the wrong side (and the center stitch "moves" each time, but I really can't explain it; you just have to do it and trust the pattern), but if you follow the pattern as written (because it's correct, of course!) and also "read" your knitting as you go, you'll soon be able to tell the rows where you need to increase. Once you start knitting the increases section, and you're able to see how it comes together, you will see how the instructions make sense and keep you making the increases on the knit side of the center stitch. 

Increases

I did make some mistakes as I was working the increase section. If you look closely at my photo of the increases, you can see where I increased on the wrong stitch a few times. But since I was able to stay in the ribbing pattern, those mistakes are not super obvious, thank goodness. Whew! 😅 The ribbing is somewhat forgiving of a few small mistakes. Using a couple of removable markers to mark the center section (and moving them after each increase/decrease) can help a lot. 

Love the phasing of the colors

I increased to a total of 57 stitches for the hood (or 11 increases). Not only do I prefer my scarves to be on the wider and longer side, but I also prefer my hoods to be amply sized to fit over my hair, which I usually wear up in a messy bun style. Plus, the extra depth will keep the back of my neck extra cozy when the hood is down, so win-win!

Another foot to go

As a natural English-style knitter, I am always Majestically Awkward 🦩 while knitting in any type of rib stitch, so I won't often take on an entire project in rib stitch, but this hooded scarf is definitely worth it. 💜 I love to watch videos of continental-style knitters working; it's hypnotically beautiful to me. And I have tried multiple times to retrain my hands to knit continental style (I comprehend how they're doing it), but my hands just simply refuse to cooperate because they know that they can already knit just fine in English style, thank you very much. 🤦 Oh well, I'll probably keep trying from time to time to learn continental style, and maybe someday it will stick for me. 😂 

In addition to this Sno Cap Hood, I was able to knit two other coordinating projects using the yarn from the poncho project: a Freja cowl and a messy-bun hat based on the Endless Texture Brim Hat design.

Matching accessories

 

Iced Gingerbread Russian brioche messy bun hat

I have made this hat pattern a couple times before (here and here) and really enjoy it. It isn't exactly standard brioche; the technique is easier than brioche but still results in a beautiful, squishy, reversible, two-color project, so I love it.

The color scheme I've chosen here reminds me of iced gingerbread, so that's what I'm calling this hat. 😊

The biggest difference this time is that I stopped decreasing after the 48-stitch section to leave the top of the crown open as a messy bun/ponytail style hat. I used a 5mm crochet hook to cast off the knitted stitches into a round of 48 SC, and then worked one more round of SC with a few decreases to get the final stitch count down to 40 stitches.

The language of the video is Russian, but it's easy to follow along with the designer, Katerina Mushyn, as she knits in the video, so even if you don't speak Russian, don't be afraid to try this pattern. She also provides written instructions in both Russian and English in the video and on her website.

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/iPabTSvzu04
Written pattern: http://prjaga.com/vyazanie-dlya-zhenshchin/shapka-beret/komplekt-bordo-shapka-i-snud-spicami

It's also helpful to use a row counter that has main/subcounter functionality with this project. I used this free browser-based Row Counter App.

 

Veterans Day Parade Camo Beanie or Messy Bun Hat free pattern

I love this Red Heart Super Saver Woodsy colorway because it reminds me of the old forest/jungle Army BDUs my husband (a Vietnam War veteran) used to wear. These colors work up to make a nice hat to wear to keep your head warm (and is long enough to cover your ears) while watching your community’s Veterans Day parade or participating in other similar celebrations in chilly November to honor and remember the many military personnel who have died in wars.

I suggest pinning a red remembrance poppy to your hat. I've read that there is no right or wrong way to wear the poppy. Some people pin them to their left lapel to position the poppy close to their heart; others wear it on the right lapel to position the poppy close to what would be the 11th hour mark if your body were viewed as the face of a clock. (If your poppy has a leaf, the leaf should also be positioned at 11 o'clock.) A Google search will provide links to multiple articles you can read about the history and etiquette of the remembrance poppy. Here's a poppy article by the American Legion.

M and L sizes of the hat use just about one full skein of RHSS in Woodsy. For size XL part of a second skein likely will be required. Other worsted or aran weight varigated yarns with short color changes (about 4-6 inches long) should give a similar result.

It's very easy to make this simple, slouchy, relaxed-fit hat as a beanie or in a messy-bun/ponytail style. Size M measures about 10 inches across the bottom when held flat, which should stretch to fit an average teen or adult’s head (20-22 inches). Size L measures about 11 inches across the bottom, which should comfortably fit heads 22-24 inches. Size XL measures about 12 inches across the bottom, to fit heads 24-26 inches.

You can copy what I did by following the easy steps below, or you can use my instructions as a jumping-off point to make a custom hat to suit your own taste. The hats are made using the hdc in the third loop stitch, which gives a sideways knit look on the obverse side and a sideways garter stitch look on the reverse side.

Supplies: 1-2 skeins Red Heart Super Saver (4) yarn in Woodsy, 5.0 mm (H) crochet hook, one large ponytail elastic (optional for messy-bun/ponytail version)

Beanie hat instructions

Setup for a beanie in all sizes: In a magic ring, hdc 10. When you reach the end of the round do not join with a slip stitch; continue working the rest of the hat in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round and move marker up on each successive round. (10 hdc)

Round 2: Work 2 hdc3lp (hdc in the third loop) in each hdc from the previous round. (20 hdc3lp)

Round 3: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in the next hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in the next st. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (30 hdc3lp)

Round 4: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 2 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 2 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (40 hdc3lp)

Round 5: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 3 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (50 hdc3lp)

Round 6: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 4 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 4 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (60 hdc3lp)

Round 7: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 5 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 5 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (70 hdc3lp)

Round 8: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 6 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 6 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (80 hdc3lp)

Stop increasing at 80 sts for size M. Sizes L and XL will increase again on round 9.

Round 9: For size M, work 1 hdc3lp in each st around. (80 hdc3lp).

For size L, work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 19 hdc from the previous round.  * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 19 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (84 hdc3lp)

For size XL, work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 9 hdc from the previous round.  * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 9 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (88 hdc3lp)

Rounds 10-29 (31, 33): Work 1 hdc3lp in each st around. (80, 84, 88 hdc3lp)

Finishing: To taper down to a smooth edge, work 1 sc in the third loop of the next hdc from the previous round, then slip stitch into the third loop of each of the next two hdcs from the previous round. Finish off, weave in ends.

Messy-bun/ponytail hat instructions

These instructions pick up at what would be round 4 for the beanie style hat.

Setup: Place a slipknot on your hook and slip stitch around a large ponytail elastic to attach. Chain 1 and work 40 hdc tightly around the ponytail elastic. (Alternatively you could start with 40 FHDC.) When you reach the end of the round do not join with a slip stitch; continue working the rest of the hat in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round and move marker up on each successive round. (40 hdc)

Round 2: Work 1 hdc3lp (hdc in the third loop) in each hdc from the previous round. (40 hdc3lp)

Round 3: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 3 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (50 hdc3lp)

Round 4: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 4 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 4 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (60 hdc3lp)

Round 5: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 5 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 5 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (70 hdc3lp)

Round 6: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 6 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 6 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (80 hdc3lp)

Stop increasing at 80 sts for size M. Sizes L and XL will increase again on round 7.

Round 7: For size M, work 1 hdc3lp in each st around. (80 hdc3lp).

For size L, work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 19 hdc from the previous round.  * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 19 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (84 hdc3lp)

For size XL, work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 9 hdc from the previous round.  * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 9 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (88 hdc3lp)

Rounds 8-26 (28, 30): Work 1 hdc3lp in each st around. (80, 84, 88 hdc3lp)

Finishing: To taper down to a smooth edge, work 1 sc in the third loop of the next hdc from the previous round, then slip stitch into the third loop of each of the next two hdcs from the previous round. Finish off, weave in ends.

I hope you enjoy making and wearing (or gifting) this hat!

The Third Loop Reversible Messy Bun Beanie

Extra long for a bit of slouch and stretchy with good coverage for ears. The "right" side looks knit while the other side resembles garter stitch.

[I'm placing this post here as a placeholder to remind me to write up this pattern!]

Russian brioche hat

Pattern is on Katerina's blog (scroll down for English version). And you don't have to speak Russian to benefit from her companion video, which walks you through each step.

I know the technique she's using here isn't traditional brioche knitting, but I don't know enough about knitting terminology to know what this is called in English so I'm just calling it Russian brioche. It resembles traditional two-color brioche in appearance and squishy, stretchy texture ... so why not call it brioche? 

I love everything about this pattern: The two-color double-knit brim makes a perfect base from which to launch into the two-color Russian brioche crown - and a super-warm, soft and stretchy band to hug the wearer's head. And the crown has the gorgeous look of brioche without the difficulty of knitting in brioche. And it's reversible!!

I'm rating this pattern as "medium" difficulty only because there are a couple of intermediate stitches involved (the double-knit brim and knitting and purling into the row below) and the decreases are a bit challenging, but I'm sure a skilled beginner can manage them if they watch the video closely.

This hat will be one of Silver's gifts this Christmas. Here's the link to my Ravelry project page, which has the details for yarn colors and needle sizes used.

Simple Vertical Stripe Placemat free pattern

Just published on Ravelry: my new free crochet pattern for a Simple Vertical Stripe Placemat.



This super-easy project works up in just a few hours. I hope you will go check it out!

I made this one with Lily Sugar ’n Cream in Country Side Ombre, which gives the fabric almost an argyle plaid effect that I really like.