Freija cowl

I love the look of this pullover bandanna cowl and just had to make one. It's the Freja halsedisse by Hygge strikke, a paid pattern. It is knitted top-down, starting with the turtleneck. The lovely look of the front/back panels is achieved using a clever combination of increases and bind-offs, which gives the hem almost a lettuce edge.

I wanted my front panel to be longer, so I deviated from the pattern by making fewer bind-offs in the third section to allow for more rows of length. I also wanted to lengthen the back panel to help keep chilly drafts off my back, so instead of binding those stitches off as directed in the pattern, I put the stitches on hold while finishing the front panel, and then reattached the yarn to the back stitches and knitted a smaller version of the front panel in the back.

Top view

 

Side view

This cowl is one of three coordinating pieces that I made by cannibalizing this unfinished poncho project. The other two pieces are a Sno Cap Hood scarf and a messy-bun hat based on the Endless Texture Brim Hat design.

 

Sno Cap Hood scarf

Brioche knits are drop-dead gorgeous. But even though I'm a fairly skilled knitter, I just have never really been able to wrap my head around the technique.

Sometimes it is possible to substitute the fisherman's rib stitch in place of brioche rib. This lovely hooded scarf, by little quail handcraft, designed in a simple brioche rib, seems to be a suitable candidate for that substitution, so I'm going to give it a try that way. 😊 Using the fisherman's rib stitch makes this pattern accessible for me. If you are able to knit in brioche, go for it! 

It has been a few years since the last time I worked in fisherman's rib, so I used the video and blog tutorials by Davina Choy of Sheep & Stitch to refresh my memory for how to work this easy, squishy stitch.

For the yarn, I am cannibalizing this poncho project that I crocheted in 2022. It weighs about 512 grams, which, by weight, works out to approximately the equivalent of 4 skeins of this yarn. Those 4 skeins weren't quite enough to finish the poncho to my satisfaction, even though I really liked the way the project was coming along (and I believe the Eggplant/Taupe colorway had already been discontinued, and I didn't feel like searching around online to try to buy more), so my poncho sat in purgatory for about four years while I figured out what else I wanted to make with this fiber.

From poncho to Sno Cap Hood

Fair warning: There is enough of a wool halo in this yarn to frequently make it difficult to rip back. Also, there is a lot of variability in the thickness of this yarn from the way it's spun, which almost gives it a homespun character. 

Variable thickness in the fiber

I don't have the labels anymore, but from what I can see online, each of these skeins is supposed to be about 312 yards, so I should have more than enough on hand to knit a Sno Cap Hood, even with my mods to increase the size.

I deviated from the pattern by starting off with a scarf width of 25 stitches, because I prefer my scarves to be on the wider side. At this gauge, that is giving me a scarf that's about 6 inches wide, which is a fairly standard scarf width.

After knitting a couple of inches, I realized that I was not happy with the way the selvedge stitches were sitting, so I ripped back to the beginning and switched from working the slipped-stitch selvedges (as per the pattern) to working them in garter stitch. At least for the fiber that I'm working with here, having garter stitch selvedges looks better, so I'm glad I noticed early on how I felt about the edges and was able to make the change before I got so far along that ripping back would have been more painful. Sometimes you just have to go with what the personality of your fiber is saying. 😂

Before starting the hood increases, I knitted the length of the first scarf tail to about 36 inches, which was about 162 rows at the gauge I'm working with this fiber. 

To work the fisherman's rib double increases/decreases for the hood portion, this video tutorial by Carolina of So Wooly is the perfect guide for executing that technique. She also provides a written tutorial of the technique on her blog.

At first the hood increases seem counterintuitive because they alternate between being worked on the right side and the wrong side (and the center stitch "moves" each time, but I really can't explain it; you just have to do it and trust the pattern), but if you follow the pattern as written (because it's correct, of course!) and also "read" your knitting as you go, you'll soon be able to tell the rows where you need to increase. Once you start knitting the increases section, and you're able to see how it comes together, you will see how the instructions make sense and keep you making the increases on the knit side of the center stitch. 

Increases

I did make some mistakes as I was working the increase section. If you look closely at my photo of the increases, you can see where I increased on the wrong stitch a few times. But since I was able to stay in the ribbing pattern, those mistakes are not super obvious, thank goodness. Whew! 😅 The ribbing is somewhat forgiving of a few small mistakes. Using a couple of removable markers to mark the center section (and moving them after each increase/decrease) can help a lot. 

Love the phasing of the colors

I increased to a total of 57 stitches for the hood (or 11 increases). Not only do I prefer my scarves to be on the wider and longer side, but I also prefer my hoods to be amply sized to fit over my hair, which I usually wear up in a messy bun style. Plus, the extra depth will keep the back of my neck extra cozy when the hood is down, so win-win!

Another foot to go

As a natural English-style knitter, I am always Majestically Awkward 🦩 while knitting in any type of rib stitch, so I won't often take on an entire project in rib stitch, but this hooded scarf is definitely worth it. 💜 I love to watch videos of continental-style knitters working; it's hypnotically beautiful to me. And I have tried multiple times to retrain my hands to knit continental style (I comprehend how they're doing it), but my hands just simply refuse to cooperate because they know that they can already knit just fine in English style, thank you very much. 🤦 Oh well, I'll probably keep trying from time to time to learn continental style, and maybe someday it will stick for me. 😂 

In addition to this Sno Cap Hood, I was able to knit two other coordinating projects using the yarn from the poncho project: a Freja cowl and a messy-bun hat based on the Endless Texture Brim Hat design.

Matching accessories

 

The Simple Thing plus hood

If you like the look of the Sophie Scarf, then give this free pattern for The Simple Thing by Melina Brell a try.

I ended up cannibalizing the yarn and needles from my attempt to make the Slice of Goodness Wrap by Purl Soho to make this project. I really, really wanted to finish Slice of Goodness, but the process was going to be very lengthy, and even though I made it to around halfway through, I lost the will to go on.

Gauge shot

I had been aware of the Sophie Scarf design for a while, but that design by itself didn't intrigue me, mainly because I don't like short scarves. I do like i-cord edges and garter stitch, however. So when the Sophie Hood version was released, that's when I started getting interested.

So my plan is to see if I can approximate the hooded version of this scarf by using The Simple Thing as my starting point.

HeathlandKnits has a good video tutorial on YouTube that walks you through the setup process for The Simple Thing scarf, and I highly recommend that you watch that video when casting on. There is also a video showing how to graft the ends together when finishing the scarf. Both of the video links included in the PDF of the pattern appear to be broken, so that's why I'm sharing the links with you here. It took me a bit of clicking around to find them.

Part 1 done

Because I prefer my scarves on the longer side, I'm making this using a 6-row repeat instead of the basic 4-row repeat suggested in the pattern. Whatever length you prefer for your pattern repeat, definitely use a stitch marker that opens/closes as a progress keeper! This almost becomes a mindless knit with the help of a progress keeper clipped to your project. 

Part 2 starts with a buttonhole

I originally planned to have the scarf part be at least 30 to 36 inches long and around 10 inches wide on each side before starting on the hood part. The way I'm visualizing this coming together, I'll have to knit each scarf side before joining them together to knit the hood. I haven't done that sort of thing before, so we'll see if it works. 🤞

Parts 1 and 2 complete

Part 1 ended up being about 27 inches long by 9.5 inches wide at widest end, or 50 stitches (not counting i-cord stitches) by 296 rows. I started part 2 by making a buttonhole at the tip, which required it to be a bit wider than the tip of part 1, so I knitted a few rows without increasing part 2 until the width at that length was about the same as on part 1, and then I continued the same increasing pattern (every 6 rows) as on part 1 until achieving the same overall width and length.

Before grafting the i-cord edging

After joining the two sides to begin the hood (and adding stitches along the i-cords at the back of the neck for a comfortable fit), I ended up with 120 stitches on the needle, not counting the i-cord stitches on each edge of the work. This will give me a hood with enough depth to comfortably fit over my hair, which I usually wear up in a messy bun style. 

Start of part 3

There is a Sophie Hood video tutorial that shows some key techniques for that pattern, and in watching that video, it's clear that I'm using a different method to knit the hood for my project. They knit the hood flat (in line with the scarf) and have a seam to join the entirety of the sides of the hood at the back; I'm also knitting my hood flat, but I'm doing mine seamlessly (bottom up) except for where the top edge will be grafted. 

Rescue line added before starting hood decreases

I debated for a while how to work the top of the hood, meaning whether I would attempt to make the back part slightly shaped/rounded with short rows or decreases. Finally, I found this video tutorial by Yuha Knitting that shows an easy-to-understand method for making decreases to help make the back of a hood knitted like mine a bit rounded, so it looks less pointy on the wearer's head. I think I'll try doing mine that way. (I could also envision a method of working short rows on either side of the center of the back of the hood to shape the crown that way, but I just didn't want to work that hard, so I'm glad I found the technique by Yuha Knitting!)

Hood complete with crown decreases

To prepare for the decreases, I added a marker to show where the center of the back of the hood was, and I will make the hood decreases on either side of that marker. I also added a marker to show when I was working a right-side row, since I intended to work decreases only on the right side of the work. Lastly, I added a rescue line in the last row before starting to decrease, just in case I wasn't happy with how the decreasing section was going. It would be easy to rip back and start the section again if needed. 😂 The decrease before the marker will be a left-leaning decrease (SSK), and the decrease after the marker will be a right-leaning decrease (K2tog).

Hood complete with top seam closed

I calculated that I wanted to decrease the crown of the hood by about 40 stitches (about one-third of the hood's total width), which, decreasing 2 stitches on each right-side row, would require 40 rows to achieve. (With decreases worked only on right-side rows, every decreasing row is followed by a non-decreasing row on the wrong side, so 20 decreasing rows plus 20 non-decreasing rows equals 40 rows total.) Based on my estimated gauge, those 40 rows would add about 3.5 inches of height to the hood. And since I wanted the total height of my hood to be about 13-14 inches (measuring from the top of my shoulder to the crown of my head), that meant that I should knit about 10 inches of hood before starting the decreasing rows.

Time to add a button

I also found a nice tutorial by Lindsey of the Yarina blog hosted by Custom Yarn that shows how to join the top of a hood knitted in garter stitch like mine using a 3-needle bind-off technique that blends invisibly into the established garter stitch. Woo-hoo! I'm going to try doing that, too.

Button info

Tendril Shawl

The pattern for this Tendril Shawl is available for free on the designer Carmen Heffernan's blog. She also provides a video tutorial that walks you through the setup rows and the first couple of pattern repeats, which is very helpful for getting this project started.

I made mine at a heavier gauge than the original pattern calls for, but it worked out well and produced a lovely shawl/wrap/scarf. My yarn is Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton in the Emerald Pine colorway, which is labeled as a 4 weight, and I'm using a 5.5 mm hook. I had a few skeins of this colorway left over from my Dressy Swingy Shawlivest project, and I thought they would look good being worked into the Tendril Shawl design. This yarn looks and feels more like a 3 weight despite the fact that it's labeled a 4 weight, and the cotton is so soft and smooth that it's a pleasure to work with.

Finished with gothpixy's edging

I love the sawtooth edge and the beautiful lacy-ness of this shawl. The project grows quickly, which is satisfying, and the four-row repeat becomes fairly intuitive after you've worked it a few times.

Finished size

The only downside to using this particular yarn is that the skeins are pretty short at only 153 yards each, so I was worried I might not have enough yardage on hand to make a full size shawl. The first skein ran out at the beginning of row 36. 

End of first skein

The second skein ran out after making it most of the way across row 52.

End of second skein

My third skein ran out almost at the end of row 64. Thankfully, I had another skein available to finish that row and continue, because the top edge of my shawl was only about 64 inches long at that point. I used the fourth skein to work another two "points" and then do the edging row.

End of third skein

I started working the picot edging row as written in the pattern, but I felt that it was coming out too tight, so I searched through the Tendril Shawl project gallery page until I found gothpixy's project.

Gothpixy suggested an alternate way to work the picot edging that I ended up using for my project. I like their edging better for two reasons: One, it provides a lovely bumpy, wavy edging that finishes the edge really well with an easier method than working traditional picots. And two, it utilizes an extra chain stitch between each bump, so the edging doesn't tighten the edge in the same way that the original pattern's edging row was doing for me. You should check out gothpixy's project to see if maybe you might like their edging better, too!

Getting started

The designer says the finished fingering-weight samples she made measure about 70 inches (178 cm) on the long top edge after 64 rows (65 rows with the final edging applied), which is 16 "points" on the bottom edge, and 32 inches (82 cm) tall/deep on the border edge after blocking. 

I crocheted mine to 18 points, or 72 rows, plus the edging row. My shawl's total length is about 72 inches before blocking.

Coboo infinity scarf

Running one entire skein of Coboo through the Addi 46 knitting machine with firm tension resulted in 184 rows, plus a tail that was just long enough to graft the ends together for a child's infinity scarf that is 42 inches long. 

I followed this YouTube tutorial by Calumet Knits for grafting the scarf ends together.

I made this for my great-granddaughter, who loves pink. I originally wanted it to be a pocket scarf, but I would have needed another skein of the Coboo yarn to add enough length to make pockets. But I think the infinity scarf still turned out OK. The yarn fiber is so light that it made it difficult to get my grafting tension just right.

Witchypoo Scarf

This pattern came to me when I was drifting in that place where I was not quite asleep but not quite awake. It's an easy crescent moon-shaped scarf that can be made with just about any yarn at any gauge. Just in time for Halloween stitching, I present to you the Witchypoo Scarf!

The Witchypoo Scarf can be made in a solid colorway, or a variegated, or an ombre, or in any yarn that your heart desires, but I think making it in two colors really makes the curves of the crescent shape pop visually.

304 stitches on needle

Comprised of mostly mindless, movie-watching-friendly, reversible garter stitch, you only need to pay attention to what you're doing during the first few stitches of each row, where the bottom edging detail is worked as you go.

200 stitches on needle

This pattern is best worked with an interchangeable needle with a long cable (at least 42 inches) to accommodate the large number of stitches.

Seeing the black and purple stripes in my scarf reminds me of the fun witchy-poo striped tights that my daughters used to wear at Halloween, which are memories that bring a smile to my soul. I hope your soul will find reasons to smile, too, as you knit and wear this scarf.

Measuring my gauge

As you can see in the "measuring my gauge" photo above, my gauge is about 4 stitches per inch and 4 rows per inch. Details about the yarn and needles used are on my Ravelry project page.

The scarf grows quickly; the only reason why it took me a couple of months to finish mine is because I was multitasking and working on several other projects at the same time. 😂 

My only question now is: Should I release this scarf design as a paid pattern? Would you be interested in making it if the pattern was available?

A pocket scarf for Morgan

Last Christmas I made a reversible beanie for Morgan with the Red Heart Super Saver Zebra colorway on the outside and lined with white.

When I asked Morgan's mom for some gift ideas for this Christmas, she told me that Morgan has worn her zebra hat quite a lot throughout the past year and suggested that I make her a matching scarf for this Christmas. Challenge accepted! 

I got a few more skeins of the Zebra yarn and decided that I wanted to make a pocket scarf for Morgan. But unlike last year, when the hat knitted up like a dream, the yarn this year was being very uncooperative. I had to restart the project four times because of dropped stitches, which was frustrating, but I kept on trying because I knew this was going to be for my grandniece (if I could ever finish it!!).

During the initial failed starts, I alternated between using my Addi King and the Sentro 48, but neither one was working very well with the yarn. I finally settled on making the scarf on the Sentro and went very, verrrry slowly at first, pushing each stitch down by hand as it passed the feeder (like the technique shown in this video), to make absolutely certain that the stitches were seated properly. Then, when I had enough length completed (around 40 rows), I added some aggressive weight using the pot lid trick. The weight made the rest of the project work smoothly. (You just have to stop about every 15-20 rows to stretch the work below the pot lid and then reposition the lid closer to the top of the work to keep it high enough to keep tension on the needles.)

I knitted 320 rows, closed the tube ends, and then turned up 8 inches at each end of the scarf for the pockets and stitched the sides together using the invisible mattress stitch.

The only thing about this project that disappointed me was the way the stripes came out looking so different on the scarf than they were on the hat. The colors on the two projects do match, since it is the same colorway of the same brand of yarn, but I have to wonder if the yarn isn't being made slightly differently now than it was a year ago. (???) It's hard to say. But I hope Morgan will be happy with it! Fingers crossed!