A tribute to my Purple Warrior, Miss Pam

I designed a gift pack of three chemo beanies in honor of my bestie and purple warrior Miss Pam, who is battling pancreatic cancer. In the photo collage above, the designs are called, from left to right, the Smooth & Simple Chemo Cap, the Sleek & Stretchy Surface Braid Chemo Cap, and the fun and funky Loopy Chemo Cap. It took a few months and a lot of work, but I finally have all the hats made (and also a Purple Power Throw blanket for some extra snuggly comfort) and ready to deliver to keep my friend warm and cozy this winter!

November is Pancreatic Cancer Awareness Month, so I'm releasing my free pattern pack on Ravelry now to give everyone an opportunity to download the patterns and get stitching on some chemo caps in time for that event.

Making and donating chemo caps to cancer patients is a charitable endeavor that is near and dear to my heart. My hope is that you will use these free patterns to donate caps to patients in need in your area as well.

In my experience, Red Heart Super Saver (and other similar acrylic yarns) can be an acceptable choice for chemo caps because even though it's stiff and scratchy when new, after running it through the washer and dryer, it comes out very soft. The machine drying step is key. (The yarn still feels stiff after coming out of the washing machine. It's only after machine drying that the yarn will soften up.) It's an individual thing whether a particular patient can tolerate the feel of the acrylic yarn. I would say for all-day wear, a natural fiber like cotton would probably feel more comfortable and breathable. 

Prototypes in my photos are displayed on a 21-inch circumference wig form.

A note about sizing: My pattern instructions are based on the type of yarn (a heavy worsted/aran) and size of hook I was using, but even if you use the exact same supplies as I did, your individual tension might produce a different size finished hat. I tend to crochet tightly; if you crochet loosely, "your mileage may vary," as they say. So if you have a specific hat/head size in mind for a specific person, it's important to know what the circumference is of their head, and it's also important for you to measure the diameter of the top of your hat when you reach the end of the increasing rounds (since these are top-down patterns) to have a better estimate of the size of the finished hat before you do all the work of the sides of the hat and then end up disappointed because it turned out either too tight or too loose for the intended wearer. (You can always do the math: diameter x 3.14 = circumference.)

In the photo below of the top of my purple prototype hat with the measuring tape, you can see that the diameter at the end of my round 7 is about 6.5 inches. If you multiply that measurement by pi (3.14), it will give you the approximate circumference of the finished hat, or about 20.5 inches, in my case. Since I wanted a hat to fit a bald head that's about 21 inches in circumference, this should be just about right.

Depending on your unique tension and the yarn you're using, you might find that you need to end up with more or fewer stitches to end up with a finished hat that's the correct size for your intended wearer. Or you might be able to achieve the correct size by changing the size of hook you're using but keeping the same number of stitches mentioned in the pattern.

The nice thing about these patterns is they are very basic and easily changed to accommodate different sizes. Just keep increasing until the top of your hat reaches the diameter you need, and then stop increasing and continue working the sides of the hat at that particular stitch count. Work the length of the sides until they are as long as you need, and then finish off. My materials list and stitch counts are only a jumping-off point for you to create a hat that works for you.

Click here to download my three-pack of quick and easy chemo caps at Ravelry, and please remember to make a few to donate to your local cancer center. Thank you so much, and happy stitching!

And just for fun, here's a photo of the Purple Power Throw blanket I also made for Miss Pam:

The throw uses the stitch pattern from the Sunny Cardi pattern, except I modified it to have the rounds begin/end in a corner by utilizing the technique for beginning/ending rounds found in the Lazy Diamond Boho Pocket Shawl. I love the way it turned out. Having the rounds begin/end in the corner looks so much neater than my original version of this blanket, my I Am the Storm Throw.

Love you so much, bestie. Keep on being strong.

A housewarming gift

I had a hank of some old, heavy worsted weight green yarn that either came from my mother's stash or else the big bag of random yarn balls that Mika gave me when she and her wife moved to Wisconsin.

Now that Mika and Emmy are buying their first house, I wanted to make them something as a housewarming gift. Since green and black are colors they are planning to utilize in their decor, the idea for this knitted pumpkin/floral display started to form in my mind.

The yarn was too heavy to run through my Sentro machine, so I tried it on the Addi instead, and, of course, the Addi was able to handle it just fine. (Addi only grumbled a tiny bit about how heavy the yarn was.)

There was enough yarn in the hank to get a tube of 114 rows, plus leaving a long tail (about 3 yards long) for finishing and sewing the pumpkin's sections.

Fold the tube inside itself in half, as for making a double-thick beanie. Cinch and secure the ends. Stuff the interior. Then using the long tail, wrap around the outside and through the center to create "sections" of the pumpkin. As you create the sections, the bottom will cinch itself closed. You can secure the bottom with a few extra stitches, if needed.

I cinched the ends while keeping a finger in the top hole so it would remain open after assembling the pumpkin. Leaving the hole slightly open this way will allow me to use the pumpkin as a "vase" for holding some silk flowers, which I think will make a lovely display. 

I also cut a stem from piece of black faux leather, making it about 6 inches long by 3/4-inch wide. I used a yarn needle to punch 2 holes near the stem ends, and used those holes to sew the yarns ends through after tying down the pumpkin's sections. Having a stem there means the pumpkin could also be displayed plain, without flowers.

The flowers I'm using are in autumn colors, but Mika and Emmy should be able to switch out the flowers throughout the years to match the changing seasons, if they wish. I cut the flower stems at about 4-5 inches long and bent them to help the flowers curve toward the pumpkin after inserting the stems into the hole at the top and working around the leather stem.

JuliChu V-stitch Headband Re-created

About 10 years ago I discovered a lovely pattern for a V-Stitch Headband by JuliChu Crochet. JuliChu had a pattern page for it on Ravelry, which linked to the actual pattern on her blog site. I made the headband several times, loved it, and then moved on to other things for a while. 

In 2019 I decided I wanted to make another one of these headbands, but when I tried to go to JuliChu's blog from her Ravelry pattern page, to my dismay I discovered that her blog had been taken down. NOoooOOooOOOooo!!! 

Long story short: I learned from this experience that if I ever again find myself in love with a pattern that's only available on the designer's blog, I will always download a copy of the instructions to keep in my personal files, just in case. But I hadn't done that with JuliChu's V-stitch headband pattern.

I reached out to manmadecreationz on Ravelry, since he had project pages showing that he had also made JuliChu's V-stitch headband many times, with the hope that maybe he had been smarter than I and had downloaded a copy of JuliChu's pattern. Alas, although he replied to my message and thought that perhaps he might have a copy of the pattern saved, which he would share with me if he could find it, he never got back to me with the actual pattern, so I had to conclude that he hadn't downloaded it either. 

I even tried using the Internet Wayback Machine to see if it would recover the pattern page from Juli's blog, but no luck there, either.

It took me a few more years to find the time (and many failed attempts) to try to re-create JuliChu's design, but I think I just might have finally cracked it. I'm not saying this is an exact replica of JuliChu's design, but after carefully examining the stitches of a headband I made previously from her pattern, I believe this comes pretty close. You can give it a go and decide for yourself.

I like the way the shorter height of the edge stitches (versus the height of the V-stitches in the center of each row) creates a curve in the fabric, which conforms to the roundness of the human head nicely.

In my sample photos, the variegated blue headband is made from JuliChu's original pattern, and the solid blue headband is my re-creation of her pattern. As you can see, the solid blue headband turned out a bit wider than the original. But bear in mind that my original headband has also been repeatedly washed and worn, whereas my new headband is fresh off the hook, so those factors have an effect on the current appearance of the pieces.

This pattern re-creation is dedicated to JuliChu Crochet. We may never know why she took down her blog, but whatever her reasons, we still love her brilliant designs and hope to continue sharing them for many years to come.

JuliChu's V-stitch Headband Re-created

US crochet terms
5mm hook
Worsted/aran-weight yarn

Special stitches:
V-stitch: In st indicated - DC, ch 1, DC.
HDC2tog: HDC two together to decrease by 1 HDC. YO, insert hook in indicated st, YO and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), YO, insert hook in next st, YO and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), YO and pull through all loops. (1 HDC decreased)

Note: The “ch 1; turn” never counts as a stitch.

Increasing section:

Row 1: Starting with a long (12-14 inches)  tail below your slipknot (you can use this length to sew the button on later), FHDC 6. Alternatively, if you don’t like working FHDC stitches, chain 7, turn, HDC in 2rd ch from hook and in each ch to end. Ch 1; turn. (6 HDC)

Row 2: 2 HDC in first st; HDC to end of row. Ch 1; turn. (7 HDC)

Row 3: 2 HDC in first st; HDC to end of row. Ch 1; turn. (8 HDC)

Row 4: 2 HDC in first st; HDC to end of row. Ch 1; turn. (9 HDC)

Row 5: 2 HDC in first st; HDC to end of row. Ch 1; turn. (10 HDC)

Row 6: 2 HDC in first st; HDC to end of row. Ch 1; turn. (11 HDC)

Row 7: 2 HDC in first st; HDC to end of row. Ch 1; turn. (12 HDC)

Now we will begin the V-stitch section:

Row 8: SC in first 2 sts; [V-stitch in next st; SC in next st]. Repeat [] to last 3 st; SC in each st to end of row. Ch 1; turn. (8 SCs and 4 V-stitches)

Row 9: SC in first 2 sts; V-stitch in next SC; [SC in next ch space from V-stitch in row below; V-stitch in next SC from row below]. Repeat [] until last V-stitch and 2 SC remain from previous row; SC in ch space of V-stitch, SC in last 2 sts. Ch 1; turn. (8 SCs and 4 V-stitches)

Repeat row 9 until headband length measures about 18 inches from the first row (unstretched), then begin decreasing section. Even better: If you have the intended wearer’s head circumference measurement, use that to determine how many times to repeat row 9 before working the decrease section. The length of the initial increasing section you made will be about the same as the length of the decreasing section. Therefore, to estimate the total length of your headband (before you work the decreasing section) add the length of the increasing section to the total length you have, and compare that to the wearer’s head measurement to determine when you should begin working the decreasing section. Keep in mind that the headband will stretch a bit when worn, so if you want the headband to fit snugly, aim to make the total length about 1 inch less than the wearer’s head circumference.

Decreasing section:

Row 1: Working ONLY into the SC and ch-1 spaces of the previous row, HDC in each st across. Ch 1; turn. (12 HDC)

Row 2: HDC2tog over first 2 sts; HDC in each st across. Ch 1; turn. (11 HDC)

Row 3: HDC2tog over first 2 sts; HDC in each st across. Ch 1; turn. (10 HDC)

Row 4: HDC2tog over first 2 sts; HDC in each st across. Ch 1; turn. (9 HDC)

Row 5: HDC2tog over first 2 sts; HDC in each st across. Ch 1; turn. (8 HDC)

Row 6: HDC2tog over first 2 sts; HDC in each st across. Ch 1; turn. (7 HDC)

Row 7: HDC2tog over first 2 sts; HDC in each st across. (6 HDC) Do not ch 1-turn. Instead, we will now make a chain space for the buttonhole. Ch 4; turn. Join end of ch to top of 1st HDC of row 7 with a sl st. Ch 1; turn.

Edging: Now we will work a row of HDC around the entire headband to give the edges a clean, finished look. Begin by working 10 HDC in the ch-6 space for the buttonhole. Continue working HDCs around the sides of the headband, placing stitches as evenly as possible. When you get to the “corners” at the end where the project began, work 2 to 3 HDCs in the corners. When you have worked all the way around back to the start of the HDC edging stitches, join using the invisible join method and finish off. (On my sample, I got 8 to 9 HDCs along the side of the increase/decrease sections and 46 HDCs along each side of the V-stitch section.)

Use the long starting tail to sew a 1-inch button on the end opposite the buttonhole, weave in ends, button the headband closed, and enjoy wearing your new headband.