True Blue Boomerang Scarf

This is such an easy, mindless knitting pattern, and it gives you a nice, long/shallow, asymmetrical triangle in garter stitch that curves nicely around your neck as either a scarf or a shawl (depending on how big you knit it to be). It's a simple two-row repeat that's very easy to remember.

This one ended up being about 58 inches long finished length from tip to tip. I didn't have a full skein of this yarn (Red Heart Super Saver Ombre in the True Blue colorway) available, so I just knitted until what I had was about to run out and then cast off. 

You can make this with any yarn weight at any gauge, just choose a needle size based on your yarn size that gives you a fabric with a nice drape (not too stiff). To begin, cast on 5 stitches. Row 1: kfb, kfb; knit to last 2 stitches; k2tog. Row 2: knit.

That's all there is to it! Just keep repeating those two rows until your scarf or shawl is as big as you'd like. I recommend using a stretchy cast off, such as: Knit the first stitch; slip the stitch you just knit back onto the left needle; then knit two stitches together through the back loop. Repeat by slipping that stitch back to the left needle and knitting two stitches together through the back loop until all stitches are cast off.

As you can see, I have knit this type of scarf a few times before:

Sparkle Pumpkin

The Taylor Lynn YouTube tutorial at this link suggests 45 rows for pumpkins made on the Sentro 40, but I made this one 52 rows tall because that was how many rows it took to use up the small hank of this yarn I had on hand. I mean, after all, real pumpkins come in all shapes and sizes, so why not add a few extra rows to this one? 😉

I wasn't sure how this metallic yarn would work in my machine (wasn't sure if the metallic filament would get separated/tangled in the needles, etc.), but the yarn ran through perfectly smoothly. In fact, I'm used to having to constantly monitor the stitches on my machine to make sure none has dropped (because my machine ALWAYS drops at least one stitch during every project), but this yarn ran through without one single stitch dropping. Amazing!

Finished it off with half of a cinnamon stick for a stem. I think the green color will make a nice contrast to more traditional color pumpkins in my fall display.

Update 10/20/2022: Two years later and I'm still tinkering with this pumpkin. 😊 I decided to crochet a stem to replace the cinnamon stick, figuring that the crocheted stem would fit the scale of the pumpkin better and also be child-friendly. The stem is made with a small amount of Big Twist yarn in the Taupe colorway. And then I went on and added some curly vines, one in Taupe, one in Red Heart Super Saver in Saffron, and one in a double strand of Fixler Brothers Quick Knit Sport in 018 (yellow). How you like me NOW?!? 😂

Boho Summer Cotton Swingy Shawlivest

I like the look of the four-row repeated stitch pattern of the Boho Summer Cardigan (there is a free version of the pattern on YouTube), which got me wondering whether I could use that stitch pattern in the shape of a Swingy Shawlivest. 

I'm making this one with cotton yarn for wear during the warm summer months. This was an experiment in melding two different patterns, and you can see by the way the center increase veers off at an angle (rather than staying centered) that it didn't turn out totally perfect, but it's still completely wearable and comfortable and will be fine for me. If I wanted to do this again to give to someone else, I'd have to recalculate how to keep the center increase in the center. 😉

Decided to finish this one with crocheted rope-twist fringe along the bottom to complement the boho style. There are many tutorials on YouTube for how to make this type of fringe. I like this one and this one. 

For 6-inch fringe: SC into first st. ( * SC into next st and pull up a loop that's 16 inches long. Using your finger, twist the loop 40 times. Place end of loop back on hook and sl in same SC where you started the long loop. SC in next st. Pull the twisted loop open and then drop it to allow the rope twist to settle evenly along its length. ** ) Repeat from * to  ** across hem, ending with a SC in the last st. Finish off and weave in all ends. 

Some people twist the loop while it's on their hook, and if it works for you to do it that way, great. But I find it easier for me to twist the loop on my finger. I'm always dropping the loop when I try to twist it while it's on my hook. So use whichever method works best for you. 

Since my loops are 16 inches long, that means each strand of fringe actually uses 32 inches of yarn, which is only 4 inches less than a yard. Keep that in mind if you want to make fringe this way; it requires a LOT of yardage. Generally more yardage than cut fringe would require. But the upside of the rope-twisted fringe is it can safely go into the washer and dryer. 

To make 3-inch fringe, work the same as above but only pull up an 8-inch loop and twist it 20 times. I suppose to get a 4.5-inch fringe you would pull up a 12-inch loop and twist it 30 times. (etc.)

Total yarn weight used: 928 grams, including fringe. 

My first machine-knit infinity scarf / cowl

I’m so excited! After lurking for months on various machine knitting Facebook groups and absorbing lots of helpful wisdom and tips, I finally took the plunge and bought my first knitting machine, a Sentro 40. 

I selected the 40-pin machine as my entry point into the machine knitting world because it was affordably priced, and I think its size is a good compromise between the biggest machines and the tiny machines. I’m also glad I spent months studying the experiences of others via the Facebook groups and also YouTube because that knowledge made it possible for me to hit the ground running (or if not running then at least walking) rather than to have to stumble through the learning curve that these machines invariably have.

My Sentro arrived yesterday, so as soon as I got off from work I assembled the pieces (i.e., put the legs on) and started cranking through one of the little sample balls of yarn that came with it. I already knew the trick for how to cast on because of my earlier research. 😊 On that first run-through I wasn’t paying attention to whether stitches were dropping (many of them did); I was just trying it out and having fun.

 

This infinity scarf (or cowl if worn double-wrapped) is the second thing I did with my Sentro. I cast on with the gray yarn, but I decided later that it would have been smarter to have cast on with waste yarn because that would give a neater starting edge. Mental note for next time. 😉 Jojo Juju (one of the goddesses of machine knitting on YouTube) recommends about 4-6 rows of waste yarn at the beginning and end of most projects. 

I was a lot more careful about watching for dropped stitches this time. I don’t have enough experience yet to say for sure whether the Sentro was dropping so many stitches because of the yarn I was using, or because of the way I was cranking it (my tension or whatever), or because that’s just a quirk of the Sentro. Time will tell. But even having to stop several times on just about every row to pick up dropped stitches (this video shows one method for how to correct it), it literally took less than two hours of work TOTAL from start to finish to whip out this entire project, which used all of a 315-yard skein of Caron Simply Soft. TWO. HOURS. Including the finishing work. These machines are basically miraculous.

I finished and joined the edges with the faux turban twist knot join used in all those trendy turban head-wrap patterns, like this one. The full skein of yarn yielded a tubular scarf that’s about 6 inches wide (laid flat) by about 60 inches long. I didn’t count how many rows that is (the 40-pin Sentro doesn't come with a row counter); I just used the full skein of yarn.

Which brings me to another, much more personal point about why I wanted to try working with a knitting machine: Chronic joint pain in my hands and arms has gotten bad enough over time that it has become nearly impossible for me to finish any yarncraft projects anymore. I would start a project, work on it for a couple of days, and then have to set it aside for several weeks while I waited for my hands and arms to recover before I could even think about continuing. As you can imagine, this makes for really slow going. But I think having a tool like this knitting machine will make it possible for me to keep creating, which is what I want to do, despite my disability.

Veterans Day Parade Camo Beanie or Messy Bun Hat free pattern

I love this Red Heart Super Saver Woodsy colorway because it reminds me of the old forest/jungle Army BDUs my husband (a Vietnam War veteran) used to wear. These colors work up to make a nice hat to wear to keep your head warm (and is long enough to cover your ears) while watching your community’s Veterans Day parade or participating in other similar celebrations in chilly November to honor and remember the many military personnel who have died in wars.

I suggest pinning a red remembrance poppy to your hat. I've read that there is no right or wrong way to wear the poppy. Some people pin them to their left lapel to position the poppy close to their heart; others wear it on the right lapel to position the poppy close to what would be the 11th hour mark if your body were viewed as the face of a clock. (If your poppy has a leaf, the leaf should also be positioned at 11 o'clock.) A Google search will provide links to multiple articles you can read about the history and etiquette of the remembrance poppy. Here's a poppy article by the American Legion.

M and L sizes of the hat use just about one full skein of RHSS in Woodsy. For size XL part of a second skein likely will be required. Other worsted or aran weight varigated yarns with short color changes (about 4-6 inches long) should give a similar result.

It's very easy to make this simple, slouchy, relaxed-fit hat as a beanie or in a messy-bun/ponytail style. Size M measures about 10 inches across the bottom when held flat, which should stretch to fit an average teen or adult’s head (20-22 inches). Size L measures about 11 inches across the bottom, which should comfortably fit heads 22-24 inches. Size XL measures about 12 inches across the bottom, to fit heads 24-26 inches.

You can copy what I did by following the easy steps below, or you can use my instructions as a jumping-off point to make a custom hat to suit your own taste. The hats are made using the hdc in the third loop stitch, which gives a sideways knit look on the obverse side and a sideways garter stitch look on the reverse side.

Supplies: 1-2 skeins Red Heart Super Saver (4) yarn in Woodsy, 5.0 mm (H) crochet hook, one large ponytail elastic (optional for messy-bun/ponytail version)

Beanie hat instructions

Setup for a beanie in all sizes: In a magic ring, hdc 10. When you reach the end of the round do not join with a slip stitch; continue working the rest of the hat in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round and move marker up on each successive round. (10 hdc)

Round 2: Work 2 hdc3lp (hdc in the third loop) in each hdc from the previous round. (20 hdc3lp)

Round 3: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in the next hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in the next st. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (30 hdc3lp)

Round 4: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 2 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 2 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (40 hdc3lp)

Round 5: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 3 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (50 hdc3lp)

Round 6: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 4 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 4 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (60 hdc3lp)

Round 7: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 5 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 5 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (70 hdc3lp)

Round 8: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 6 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 6 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (80 hdc3lp)

Stop increasing at 80 sts for size M. Sizes L and XL will increase again on round 9.

Round 9: For size M, work 1 hdc3lp in each st around. (80 hdc3lp).

For size L, work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 19 hdc from the previous round.  * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 19 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (84 hdc3lp)

For size XL, work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 9 hdc from the previous round.  * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 9 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (88 hdc3lp)

Rounds 10-29 (31, 33): Work 1 hdc3lp in each st around. (80, 84, 88 hdc3lp)

Finishing: To taper down to a smooth edge, work 1 sc in the third loop of the next hdc from the previous round, then slip stitch into the third loop of each of the next two hdcs from the previous round. Finish off, weave in ends.

Messy-bun/ponytail hat instructions

These instructions pick up at what would be round 4 for the beanie style hat.

Setup: Place a slipknot on your hook and slip stitch around a large ponytail elastic to attach. Chain 1 and work 40 hdc tightly around the ponytail elastic. (Alternatively you could start with 40 FHDC.) When you reach the end of the round do not join with a slip stitch; continue working the rest of the hat in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round and move marker up on each successive round. (40 hdc)

Round 2: Work 1 hdc3lp (hdc in the third loop) in each hdc from the previous round. (40 hdc3lp)

Round 3: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 3 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (50 hdc3lp)

Round 4: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 4 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 4 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (60 hdc3lp)

Round 5: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 5 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 5 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (70 hdc3lp)

Round 6: Work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 6 hdc from the previous round. * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 6 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (80 hdc3lp)

Stop increasing at 80 sts for size M. Sizes L and XL will increase again on round 7.

Round 7: For size M, work 1 hdc3lp in each st around. (80 hdc3lp).

For size L, work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 19 hdc from the previous round.  * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 19 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (84 hdc3lp)

For size XL, work 2 hdc3lp in the first hdc from the previous round; work 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 9 hdc from the previous round.  * Work 2 hdc3lp in the next st, 1 hdc3lp in each of the next 9 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. (88 hdc3lp)

Rounds 8-26 (28, 30): Work 1 hdc3lp in each st around. (80, 84, 88 hdc3lp)

Finishing: To taper down to a smooth edge, work 1 sc in the third loop of the next hdc from the previous round, then slip stitch into the third loop of each of the next two hdcs from the previous round. Finish off, weave in ends.

I hope you enjoy making and wearing (or gifting) this hat!

Granny Squared Into Highlighter Hell Throw free pattern

I found a couple more skeins of the unidentified colorway aka “Highlighter Hell” (what I call it) by Red Heart, so I decided to use it along with some plain white to make an infinite granny square throw for my daughter who loooves these (horrifically) bright colors. 😉

After trying to work this continuous granny square in full rounds of a single color, I discovered that there was not a good way to carry the next color up for the subsequent round without leaving a long loop on the reverse side where I changed colors (see below). I was afraid that the only way to “fix” this would be to add a lightweight flannel backing to cover the reverse side and hide the loops.

I pondered this problem for a while and concluded that the best way to avoid it would be to use a two-color spiral method, so I went searching for a pattern and found The Continuous 2 Color Granny Crochet Tutorial by Fiber Spider on YouTube. Ta-da!! This method is an absolutely brilliant way to work a two-color continuous granny stitch blanket without having to tie off after every single round (and have eleventy-bazillion ends to weave in when you’re done, plus all those ends would equal a lot of wasted inches of yarn), and it eliminates the big-loop-from-carrying-up-the-yarn problem I was having. Like I said: Brilliant!!

Here's a comparison of the obverse view of working the blanket in full rounds of each color (left) vs. the half-rounds used in the Fiber Spider method (right). As you can see, the different methods are undetectable to the eye, but Fiber Spider's method results in a blanket that is fully reversible and looks tidy on both sides:

I just kept working rounds on the throw until I ran out of the Highlighter Hell color. Then I used some highlighter orange yarn from my stash to work a border of one round SC followed by one round RSC or crab stitch. Finished size is about 44 inches square.

Works when they were still in progress ...

The Third Loop Reversible Messy Bun Beanie

Extra long for a bit of slouch and stretchy with good coverage for ears. The "right" side looks knit while the other side resembles garter stitch.

[I'm placing this post here as a placeholder to remind me to write up this pattern!]

Zebra Slouchy Messy Bun Hat free pattern

This is just a design for an oversized, slouchy messy-bun hat made with alternating rows of two Red Heart colorways: zebra and soft white. (Having a plain white row between each zebra row helps prevent the zebra colors from pooling too much.) This is bean stitch worked in the round.

I started by FSC 40 and joining to work in the round, then continued working in bean stitch in increasing rows to 80 stitches. Worked straight in bean stitch until hat was about the length I wanted, then worked three rows in HDC in third loop (for the triple band above the ribbing). Finished with three rows of front/back post DC for the ribbing.

I like the fit because it’s long enough to comfortably cover my ears (with a bit of fashionable slouch in the back) and loose enough to skim my head without being too constricting.

Pennsylvania hat

Inspired by Sheldon's red knitted hat on "The Big Bang Theory" and fashioned after designer Britta Graham's Textured Sherpa Earflap Hat, while on a trip to Pennsylvania, on a whim I bought a skein of Red Heart Cafe Latte yarn and started crocheting a winter hat in a similar shape as Sheldon's.

I wanted the crown to have a lot of texture, so I used a fpdc pattern, then switched to a smoother pattern for the brim and earflaps.

All that's left to do is to add a chunky tassel to the end of each earflap, but my ambition has stalled for the summer, so this hat will hibernate until the weather turns cold again.

I credit Britta's wonderfully written designs with helping me learn to crochet several years ago, and I highly recommend them to everyone! :-)

Here's a look at Sheldon's red hat: